Cincinnati, Ohio is known for its incredible culinary diversity, and nestled in the Mount Lookout neighborhood is a hidden gem that brings the rich, vibrant flavors of Malaysia right to the American Midwest. On a recent episode of “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” Guy Fieri found himself transported to Malaysia thanks to the culinary magnificence of Sago, a restaurant helmed by Chef Paulu. Here’s a rundown of the episode that’ll make you want to book a flight—or at least a table.
Sago: A Dream Realized
Sago is the epitome of an immigrant’s dream. Chef Paulu, originally from Malaysia, immigrated to the United States at the age of 41. His journey and passion for Malaysian cuisine culminated in the opening of Sago, a small but mighty eatery in Cincinnati that offers a full culinary tour of Malaysia. “From what people are saying, when you taste this menu, it’s a one-way ticket to Malaysia,” says Guy Fieri.
A Background on Malaysian Cuisine
Malaysian cuisine is a melting pot of flavors influenced by Thai, Chinese, and Indian culinary traditions. This vibrant combination of spices and cooking techniques is a true representation of Malaysia’s rich cultural heritage. Guy reminds us, “You’re doing Malaysian which is a blend of Thai, Chinese, Indian—all different countries. It’s like a geography lesson.”
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Nasi Lemak and Beef Rendang: A Winning Combination
During his visit, Guy gets an up-close look at how Chef Paulu prepares two of Sago’s standout dishes: Nasi Lemak and Beef Rendang. Nasi Lemak, often considered the national dish of Malaysia, is a fragrant rice dish cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf. Beef Rendang, on the other hand, is a flavorful beef stew that’s slow-cooked until tender.
To start, Chef Paulu pressure-cooks beef knuckles for 35 minutes with lemongrass and water. After cooling, the beef is diced and prepared for the braise. This involves an intricate mix of fresh spices—oil, lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, and onions—and dry spices like star anise, cumin, and coriander, which are ground and pureed.
The accompanying coconut rice uses a blend of Jasmine and long-grain rice, ginger, onions, lemongrass, pandan leaf, coconut milk, salt, MSG, and water. It’s cooked to perfection and serves as the base for the Beef Rendang.
The Making of Beef Rendang
The preparation of Beef Rendang involves combining fresh spice mix, chili powder, and the liquid from the pressure-cooked beef. Diced beef, dry spices, lime leaf, coconut milk, toasted coconut paste, salt, and sugar are added and cooked for 15 minutes. The final touch is the tamarind sambar, a tangy chili sauce made with oil, lemongrass, onions, and tamarind.
For plating, the dish includes peanuts, eggs, spicy pickles, coconut rice, tamarind sambar, and the rich, saucy Beef Rendang garnished with toasted sesame seeds and fried onions. Guy exclaims, “That is so good… tender beef with a little bit of spice… It’s really, really delicious.”
The Legendary Roast Duck
As if the Nasi Lemak and Beef Rendang weren’t enough, Chef Paulu also demonstrates his skills with a sensational roast duck. The duck is dry-rubbed with ginger powder, black pepper, cinnamon, kosher salt, and other spices, then marinated for 24 hours. It’s air-dried before being glazed with a meltose solution and finally roasted to crispy perfection.
The duck is then complemented with egg noodles tossed in a mix of water, kosher salt, sugar, chicken base, dark soy sauce, sesame oil, and white pepper. Guy calls it, “Some of the most tender duck you’ll ever try… The skin on the outside is the bomb.”