“Like Going from Black and White Movies to IMAX”
That’s how Guy Fieri described his first bite of the Dynamite Duck and Potato Pierogies at Pearly’s Restaurant and Delicatessen in Richmond, Virginia. And after watching the labor-intensive process behind this dish, you’ll understand why it left him speechless.
A Deli Like No Other
Pearly’s isn’t your typical delicatessen. Owners Rochelle and Kevin Roberts have created something unique by blending Kevin’s master cooking skills with the Jewish comfort food recipes from Rochelle’s bubby. “I’m Jewish and there was nowhere to get this food,” Rochelle explained, noting that the recipes are family heirlooms that have been “tweaked” through collaboration between the two of them.
Guy admitted he’s seen it all on Triple D — delis, diners, sandwich shops, corner stores — but Pearly’s stopped him in his tracks. “There’s nothing I’ve ever tasted or been to that’s like Pearly’s,” he declared.
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The 60-Hour Pierogi
If you think pierogies are simple, Kevin Roberts would like a word. This dish requires multiple days and an almost obsessive attention to detail. The process starts with the pierogi dough itself: eggs, sour cream, water, salt, and all-purpose flour, mixed and then rested in the refrigerator.
But the real magic happens with the duck. Kevin creates a cure using white sugar, brown sugar, sumac, and kosher salt, then layers the duck legs with crushed juniper berries, raw garlic, and fresh thyme. After refrigerating overnight, the legs are cooked low and slow in schmaltz — that’s rendered chicken fat — for two to three hours until perfectly confit.
When Guy asked Kevin how many hours were in his day, the chef deadpanned: “60.” Given what goes into this single menu item, that math checks out.
Building the Dish
The filling combines boiled potatoes, green onions, shredded duck leg confit, mixed peppercorn, kosher salt, and — naturally — some of that reserved duck fat. Kevin rolls out each pierogi by hand with what Guy jokingly called an “Easy Bake Oven” rolling pin, refusing to use a sheeter. The pierogies are then boiled before getting finished in duck fat with shiitake and button mushrooms.
The sauce brings it all together: a house-made roasted tomato ketchup (roma tomatoes, garlic, dried oregano, dried basil, tomato paste) that Kevin chars in the pan along with mirepoix and duck stock. Everything reduces together, and the dish gets finished with chive sour cream.
Tips from Kevin’s Kitchen
Char your tomato ketchup: Kevin specifically chars the roasted tomato ketchup in the pan for extra depth of flavor.
Don’t skip the duck fat: From cooking the confit to finishing the filling to pan-frying the pierogies, duck fat appears at nearly every stage.
Let things rest: The cure sits overnight, the dough rests in the fridge — patience is built into every step.
The Verdict
Guy’s reaction said it all: “The duck jus reduction with the pierogies soaks up the vegetables, the mushrooms put a little kiss to that roasted tomato sauce.” He compared the experience to finally seeing a movie in IMAX after a lifetime of black and white. One customer summed up the pierogies perfectly: “Creamy, hearty, moist” — and better than any others you’ll find.
For more comfort food discoveries like Corned Beef Hash in Texas or Fried German Potato Salad, check out our restaurant directory to find Triple D spots near you.