Heat oven to 425°F. Toss cauliflower with oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper on a large sheet. Roast 25 to 30 minutes until tender with browned edges, turning once.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a soup pot over medium; cook onion 7 minutes. Add broth, mustard, and remaining salt; gently simmer 10 minutes.
Reserve 1 1/2 cups small roasted florets. Simmer remaining cauliflower in broth 5 minutes. Remove from heat; blend smooth with an immersion blender.
Add 1 cup milk; heat gently 2 minutes. Turn off heat; wait until bubbling stops. Stir in Gruyère by small handfuls until melted.
Add remaining 1/2 cup milk to loosen. Divide among 6 bowls; top each with reserved florets.