Heat the oven to 425°F. Toss cauliflower with olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper on a large sheet. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes until tender with browned edges, turning once.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a soup pot over medium heat and cook onion for 7 minutes. Add broth, mustard and remaining salt and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
Reserve 1 1/2 cups small roasted florets. Add remaining cauliflower to the broth and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and blend until smooth with an immersion blender.
Add 1 cup milk and heat gently for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, wait until bubbling stops and stir in Gruyère in small handfuls until melted.
Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup milk to loosen the soup, then divide among 6 bowls and add reserved roasted florets to each serving.