When a Biscuit This Big Meets Chicken This Good in Santa Fe
“It’s a big sandwich,” says the chef at Rowley Farmhouse Ales, holding up their custom-made biscuit cutter. “Well, I’m a big guy,” Guy fires back. That exchange perfectly captures the spirit of this Santa Fe brewery where two buddies—John Rowley and Jeffrey Kaplan—joined forces to create something special in mexico/" class="ddd-auto-link">New Mexico’s midtown area.
Their vision was simple but ambitious: Rowley wanted a farmhouse brewery with good food, while Kaplan dreamed of a gastropub with good beer. The result? A neighborhood pub serving what Guy calls “above-average pub fare” that’s become a destination for locals who, as one customer puts it, “come for the food.”
The Chicken and Biscuit Sandwich: A Comfort Food Masterclass
This isn’t your quick-service chicken sandwich. The process at Rowley Farmhouse Ales starts a full day before you take your first bite. The kitchen brines chicken breast, chicken thigh, and what they call an “airliner”—a breast with the wing still attached. Fun fact: Guy offers his own theory on the name, suggesting it’s “because it’s still got the wings so it flies.” The chef admits he hadn’t heard that one before.
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The brine itself is straightforward but effective: hot water, garlic powder, kosher salt, and sugar, cooled down with ice to avoid scorching the meat. After an overnight soak, things get what Guy calls “chefy”—the chicken goes into a sous-vide bath at 165 degrees for about an hour.
Why the extra step? As the chef explains, par-cooking means when you bread and fry at order, “you’re gonna be able to achieve that really nice crisp” without waiting for it to cook through. The result: chicken that “stays nice and juicy and tender all the time.” A final dredge in rice flour before frying creates what Guy describes as a “real thin batter” that’s “super crunchy.”
That Biscuit Though
The house-made biscuit features flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, cold butter, local goat cheddar, green onion, and buttermilk. The technique matters here—the dough gets folded multiple times “to make sure we got some nice layers.” Into the oven at 350 degrees for about 18 minutes.
The sandwich comes together with a toasted biscuit, horseradish crema, crispy fried chicken, house-made pickles, and onion rings (also fried in that same rice flour batter). Guy’s verdict is enthusiastic: “Nice tender biscuit. Great chicken. This is tender, great flavor. You’re definitely getting a little bit of the brine.”
But it’s his assessment of the flavor combination that seals it: “The brine of the pickle and the horseradish sauce is dynamite.”
Tips from the Rowley Kitchen
Brine overnight: Don’t rush this step. The full soak delivers flavor that Guy could taste in the finished product.
Sous-vide for consistency: Par-cooking before frying means perfectly cooked chicken every time without overcooking the exterior.
Rice flour for the crunch: Both the chicken and onion rings use rice flour for that light, crispy coating.
Fold your biscuit dough: Multiple folds create those flaky layers that make a biscuit memorable.
If you’re into comfort food done right, this ranks alongside dishes like Elevated Potato Skins | Big Bite and Burrata Truffle Pizza—familiar favorites elevated with technique and quality ingredients.
Ready to plan your own Triple D food tour? Find Rowley Farmhouse Ales and hundreds more Guy-approved spots in our restaurant directory.