When a Chuck Wagon Chef Says “Al Dente” — Fred’s Texas Cafe in Fort Worth
“You got a chuck wagon cook here in Texas using the word al dente to describe his potatoes. Crazy.” That’s Guy Fieri, standing in a cast iron-scented kitchen at Fred’s Texas Cafe in Fort Worth, watching something he’d never seen on Triple D before: a cowboy chef.
Terry Chandler isn’t your typical diner cook. The man wears an “Outlaw Chef” title and drives down to Hatch, mexico/" class="ddd-auto-link">New Mexico to personally buy his green chilies when they’re in season. Fred’s itself has been a Fort Worth fixture for 30 years — named after the family dog, no less — and when Terry took over from his parents, he kept the classics while adding his own southwestern swagger.
The New Mexico Style Green Chili and Lamb Stew
This isn’t something you can order year-round. Terry only makes his green chili and lamb stew when the Hatch chilies are in season, and the process starts with dry-roasting those peppers in a salamander until they pop and blister.
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The foundation begins in Terry’s cast iron chili pot — a piece of equipment he clearly loves. “I love cooking with the cast iron,” he told Guy. “Has so much residual heat. It just stays right at the same temperature because of the thick wall.”
Here’s how he builds the stew: render bacon first to get the grease going, then add onions to clarify. A hit of minced garlic goes in briefly — “We don’t want it to burn, make it bitter” — before the lamb gets browned in the residual oil. Salt, pepper, and ground cumin give it that southwestern character Terry’s known for.
The roasted chilies get pureed in a food processor, then strained to remove the seeds and skins. Water and potatoes go in last, and Terry keeps those potatoes al dente — “I don’t like them mushy.”
Guy’s verdict? “It’s got a nice bite to it. And the sauce doesn’t mask the flavor of the lamb.”
The Ribeye with Chipotle Brown Butter
If the lamb stew showcases Terry’s New Mexico adventures, the ribeye shows his Texas roots. Fred’s cuts 16-ounce lip-on ribeyes — essentially prime rib without the bone — and Terry trims the silver and excess fat himself, leaving just enough for flavor.
The cooking method is pure indulgence: butter down first, then salt, pepper, and granulated garlic on both sides. Sliced onions and chipotles go into the pan with some of the adobo sauce. As the steak cooks, the juices help cook down the onions and peppers. The finishing move? A beer deglaze to scrape up all those fond bits, then everything gets piled right on top of the steak.
“That’s a good piece of meat,” Guy declared after tasting. “You cook that pepper down enough to where it’s not just all heat. Onions are nice and sweet.” His final word: “You can serve nothing else. I’d come for that.”
Tips from Terry’s Kitchen
On garlic: Add it briefly and don’t let it burn — it turns bitter fast.
On cast iron: The thick walls maintain consistent temperature, making it ideal for stews and browning meat.
On meat: “You can’t cook meat without salt and pepper. I don’t care what anybody says.”
On chilies: Strain your puree to remove seeds and skins for a smoother sauce.
A Fort Worth Institution
Fred’s draws a loyal crowd. One regular had been coming for 17 years. Another? “All my life.” The restaurant serves Texas diner staples — cheeseburgers, chicken fried steak sandwiches — alongside Terry’s more adventurous creations like quail and eggs over easy.
As one customer put it: “He’s not afraid to try anything new.” And Terry himself summed up his philosophy simply: “I want people to walk away from Fred’s with a good feeling.” In the belly or their head? “Both.”
For more Texas flavor, check out how Guy reacted to Spice Rubbed Grilled Duck Breast | Big B, or see what happens when Back to Pizza Palace He Visited in 2007. Find Fred’s Texas Cafe and other Triple D spots in our restaurant directory.