A Dying Art: Old-School Butchering on Brigantine Island
“How many of us left? Not many.”
That’s the honest reality from Mel Cordolessa, owner and butcher at Ernest and Son, a shop that’s been holding down the traditions of real butchering on Brigantine Island, just over the bridge from Atlantic City, New Jersey. When Guy Fieri rolled in, he wasn’t just looking for a sandwich—he was stepping into a piece of Americana that’s becoming increasingly rare.
From Sweeping Floors to Running the Show
Ernest and Son originally opened under Ernie Storino, and his son Sam continued the legacy. Mel started working there at just 13 years old, sweeping up and stocking shelves. He fell in love with the craft, and when Sam was ready to pass the torch 30 years after the shop first opened, Mel was the natural choice. Sam himself said he “felt very comfortable turning the store over to Mel” knowing the traditions would carry on.
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And carry on they have. This isn’t your grocery store meat counter. They’re doing real butchering—beef, veal, lamb, pork, fresh chicken, even calves liver. As one loyal customer put it: “I don’t get my meat from the grocery store. I get it only here.”
House-Made Jerky That Disappears by the Hour
Guy got right into the homemade jerky, and the moment was pure Fieri—someone actually tried to cheers him with a piece of jerky. His verdict? “It’s not too dry, not over seasoned, it’s a nice balance to it. A little hot, little sweet.” He called it “great jerky” and immediately went back for another piece.
Customers confirmed the obsession: “My kids love it. They take it by the handful and it’s done within the hour and we have to come back.” The shop offers everything from the spiciest you can handle to more subtle, soft flavors—perfect for tailgating parties or just snacking.
The Tailgater: Sausage Done Right
The real star of the segment was the Tailgater—a sausage and pepper sandwich with cheese that showcases Mel’s house-made sausage. Guy broke down exactly why it works: the fennel is the key, delivering great flavor all the way through the sausage. He also appreciated that they let the sausage set for a day before cooking, allowing those spices to really develop.
The sandwich comes on fresh rolls delivered daily—tender enough to hold together without fighting you—and is finished with sharp, salty provolone sliced right there in the shop. Guy’s reaction was simple and direct: “That’s good sausage, man. That’s really good.”
During summer season, this place is moving 600 to 700 rolls a day. Big sandwiches with a lot of meat, built for the crowds coming onto the island. As one regular noted, “This is the first stop on the island when we come on.”
Why This Place Matters
Guy summed it up perfectly: “The fact that you’re making it, you’re cutting it, you’re butchering it, and just all these components—I see why when people walk in they go ‘I want to have you in my neighborhood.’ This is the kind of place people would love to have.”
In an era where old-school butcher shops have gone the way of drive-in movie theaters and record stores, Ernest and Son is proof that the craft survives when someone cares enough to keep it alive. If you’re into spots that take pride in doing things the hard way, you might also appreciate the dedication behind a for *Out of Bounds* Pastrami Sandwich or the handmade tradition of Arepas in Puerto Rico.
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