“My Grandma’s in the Room Again”: The Bolognese Lasagna at Matteo’s Osteria

“When I tasted his lasagna I was like my grandma’s in the room again.” That’s how Guy Fieri described the experience of eating the Bolognese Lasagna at Matteo’s Osteria in Wailea, Hawaii. Just up the street from the Andaz hotel, this husband-and-wife operation has become the talk of Maui—she handles the baking, he scratch-makes everything else, and together they’ve created what Guy calls “a little piece of Italy.”

Five Layers of Love

The star of this segment is unquestionably the Bolognese Lasagna, and watching chef Matteo build it reveals why it hits so differently. This isn’t a quick weeknight dinner—the bolognese alone is a morning job that simmers for at least three hours.

The meat sauce starts with oil, Italian sausage, and mirto to add natural sweetness. Then comes local grass-fed ground beef, followed by an ingredient that made Guy do a double-take: Mortadella. “Let me see that’s not Mortadella, look at that!” Guy exclaimed, clearly impressed by the quality. The meats get deglazed with Sangiovese wine, then bay leaves, rosemary, and tomato sauce from imported Italian canned tomatoes join the pot along with veal demi-glace. Guy noted the viscosity of that homemade demi—you can see it in the sauce.

The fresh pasta is equally meticulous: flour mixed with salt, eggs incorporated, then worked for 15 minutes before resting for an hour. The sheets get folded in thirds, then in half, building layers before being cut to the exact measurement of the half pan and blanched.

The Build and the Bake

Assembly starts with béchamel sauce on the bottom to keep the pasta moist. Then it’s pasta sheet, more béchamel, bolognese, Parmigiano-Reggiano, mozzarella—and repeat. Five layers of love, as Matteo calls it.

But here’s where it gets interesting: the lasagna gets par-baked for 15-20 minutes, then flipped onto a cutting board, cooled, and portioned. At service time, each portion bakes 10 minutes with foil, then another 5-10 minutes without. Why? “Because I like that nice crusty cheesy,” Matteo explains. The result is that signature toasted, melted cheese crunch on top.

When Guy finally dug in—after being warned it was very hot—his verdict was immediate: “This is rustic, super balanced. You really get the bolognese and it’s not heavy. It’s bright, really clean flavors.”

Tips from Matteo’s Kitchen

Make your own demi-glace: The viscosity Matteo achieves in his bolognese comes from homemade veal demi, not store-bought shortcuts.

Use quality Mortadella: It adds depth to the meat sauce that ground pork alone can’t match.

Import your tomatoes: Matteo uses canned tomatoes from Italy for authentic flavor.

Cool before portioning: Par-baking, flipping, cooling, then portioning gives you better structure and that crusty top during final baking.

A Dish You Can Actually Finish

Perhaps the highest compliment came at the end: “I think I’ll be able to actually finish the entire dish and that’s not common with lasagna, but this I could pound it out.” When a dish this rich and layered still feels light enough to finish, you know the balance is right. Much like the care that goes into dishes like Pollo en Pipián Tipo Zacatecas or even something as seemingly simple as a Maple Bar, it’s the attention to technique that separates good from unforgettable.

If you’re planning a trip to Maui and want food that feels like someone’s Italian grandmother is cooking just for you, Matteo’s Osteria belongs on your list. Find it and other Triple D spots in our restaurant directory.