At the Corner of Classy and Trashy: Wario’s Beef and Pork in Columbus
“Don’t say Philly,” Guy warns his son Hunter at the top of this segment. “Just say Columbus.” And owner Stefan Madias has earned that distinction. At Wario’s Beef and Pork in downtown Columbus, Ohio, a fine dining background meets a takeout window, creating what Guy calls “a five-star meal on wax paper.”
The Wario’s Way Cheesesteak
The number one seller on the menu comes two ways: standard or the Wario’s Way. Guy went all in on the signature version, and the build is nothing short of elaborate.
It starts with the bread—a homemade recipe Stefan calls “the foundation of a house.” The dough combines olive oil, water, yeast, semolina flour, bread flour, sugar, and salt. After mixing for five minutes, then another five on second speed, it rests, gets a final 30-second mix, and proofs for an hour. Each roll gets formed using a technique that creates an airy interior with a tight outer skin, then rolled in seeds, sliced, and proofed another 12 to 18 hours before baking at 375 degrees for 15 minutes.
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The house cheese sauce layers four-year aged cheddar, Monterey, and sheep’s milk pecorino with milk, salt, onion powder, garlic powder, mustard, black pepper, and sodium citrate as a binder—all hit with an immersion blender until smooth.
Then there’s the Wario sauce: super caramelized onions, roasted garlic, pepper, salt, lemon zest, lemon juice, blended to a paste and finished with mayo. Guy tasted it and immediately declared, “There’s probably onions or money in there.”
The steak itself is ribeye on the flat top with salt and pepper. Only the bottom of the bun gets toasted. The meat gets three slices of Cooper Sharp, two slices of unsmoked provolone, a splash of water for steam, the house cheese sauce (cheese side down), a kiss of whiz on top, caramelized onions, and Wario sauce.
“It is another dimension,” Guy said, visibly impressed. “Everything from making the roll yourself to making the cheese sauce to studying awareness of great cheese stakery.”
The Roasted Pork and Broccoli Rabe
But it was the second sandwich that truly stopped Guy in his tracks. The pork starts with a house cure: sugar, salt, garlic, chili flake, rosemary, toasted fennel seed, and citrus zest. It dry brines for 6 to 8 hours, then roasts at 225 degrees for up to 12 hours in reserved pork jus.
When Guy asked if the pork was pulled or sliced, Stefan’s answer threw him: “It’s whisked.” The broccoli rabe gets blanched in very salty water, then finished with garlic, red pepper flakes, salt, zest, lemon juice, and clover honey. Sharp provolone ties it together.
“The cheesesteak is some of the best cheesesteaks I’ve ever had on Triple D,” Guy admitted. “That sandwich, they need to name a street in Flavor Town after that.” He called Wario’s “classy and trashy”—and meant it as the highest compliment.
Tips From the Wario’s Kitchen
Long proofs matter: That 12-18 hour second proof creates the light, airy interior Stefan is after.
Sodium citrate for cheese sauce: It’s what keeps the multi-cheese blend smooth without breaking.
Whisk your slow-cooked pork: After 12 hours at 225, the meat falls apart into something between pulled and shredded—a texture worth trying.
If you love sandwiches with serious technique, check out a 10-OZ. MEATBALL & Chicken Parm in Utah or see what fine dining does to Duck L’Orange. For more Triple D spots across the country, browse our restaurant directory.